My complete San Sebastian guide
Info, insider tips, and tricks I've learned after our fifth summer visit
If you’ve ever dreamed of sun drenched summers in Spain with your family - Mornings to explore, while the kids learn Spanish - Temps in the 70s in July… Read on!
In the summer of 2018, I asked on IG where we we could find a spanish school for the boys in a spanish speaking country. So many great ideas came across. But my friend Jessica, sent me a detailed email about why San Sebastian would be great + how they did it. I sent it over to my husband, and we both thought “this is it. It has everything we’re looking for”. We started planning for the following summer in 2019. I’ve shared a lot on my blog, but get frequent emails about it too. I always try to pay it forward, as Jessica paved the way for us. Who knows where we would have ended up, and I truly can’t think of a better spot. If you love beautiful beaches, delicious food, and family friendly activities - all in Spanish, you’ll love San Sebastian. I always say, if Paris is for lovers, San Sebastian is for Families. Kids are welcome, there’s a playground on every corner, and the kids seem to always be pleased with croquetas.
GETTING THERE:
You have a few options to get to San Sebastian. Unless you’re already in Europe, you won’t be finding a direct flight in. I do kinda have this belief, that all the best places in the world are a little hard to get to.
From Bilbao airport: take a bus (easiest and cost effective) that will go from the airport to the train station. Train station is pretty centrally located. Or hire private transfer.
San Sebastian airport: You can also take a bus, or hire private transfer.
Biarritz airport: In France, but only about 30-40 minutes away. A lot of budget airlines fly in here, so it can be cost effective.
You can also use the train. But we did have a rough experience the one and only time we’ve used it!
To give you a lay of the land…nothing is very far apart, and most everywhere is walkable. Busses are reliable if you need.
LONG TERM RENTALS:
I often have questions on which area to rent in. I prefer Centro - it has Parisian architecture vibes, central to everything, and is a little more quiet than Old Town. Old Town is going to be louder. Gros is going to have a more laid back, surfer, local feel to it. Ondaretta, I believe is tricky to rent in. But I do love that area!
I often get questions on where to look for apartments. We met our landlord in 2019, and had plans to stay here in 2020… but we all know what happened that year. Fast forward to 2022, 2023, 2024, and now 2025 - That landlord we met in 2019 has taken such great care of us. So while ours is a bit of an insider situation, (and sorry - this is her only property!) you can find a ton of apartments on Airbnb. There’s also Feel Free - which has more support, and boots on the ground help. I’ve even heard of people finding a short term nanny and other childcare needs.
HOTELS:
Hotel Arbaso: Located above one of my favorite restaurants. Love the location, minimalist style, and I’ve heard service is great.
Hotel Maria Christina: Definitely the nicest hotel they have in town! It’s a beauty. They’re also a Marriott property, so you may be able to get a room on points.
Villa Favorita: An adults only haven right along the beach. Great for a romantic weekend!
CAMPS/IMMERSION CLASSES, ETC:
El Aula Azul: The boys have really enjoyed El Aula Azul for the last FIVE years. Time flies! They do such a great job, and a couple times a week, offer something for the whole family to do together after camp hours. These have ranged from cooking classes, soccer meet ups, pintxos tours (with babysitting), pottery classes, and horseback riding. During camp they have an hour and a half of in class instruction. Then they get hands on Spanish by doing different activities around the city. The hours are 9:30-1. With an option to stay for lunch until 3pm.
Local soccer camp: This year we did a local soccer camp. The boys were the only Americans/Native English speakers. They loved it! It was outside of the city a bit, requiring a 20 minute bus ride.
Pukas Surf & Skate camp: While we do surf lessons with Pukas, they also offer a morning camp for the kids. They skate for an hour and a half, and surf for an hour and a half. My boys have loved this one! Hours are 9:00-12:00
Real Club de Tenis: I have looked into this and think it would be fantastic if your kids have a decent knowledge of Spanish. You play tennis, padel, and lots of sea activities like sailing and SUP. They will be with mostly (if not all) local Spanish children.
SPECIAL EXPERIENCES:
AuPahi is run by our friend (now part of the Framily) Julen. He’s taken us on some wonderful adventures, and spots we never would have found on our own. From hikes, to incredible meals, to picking us up from the airport (and adding in some adventure along the way too), to surfing with my boys, to taking us to a gastronomic club … and so much more. He is passionate about his heritage and it’s special to experience.
OstarteSailing: We loved doing a sunset sail along the Basque coast on the Lucretia. A big piece of history. It has been restored so beautifully. You’ll love this memorable ride.
Gastronomic Club meal: We’ve been invited to a couple of these. I actually met an older gentleman in 2023, when my son needed to find a restroom, and stumbled into one of the most storied Gastronomic clubs in SS. I had no idea! He was so kind, and we kept in touch. When my sisters and mom came one summer, it lined up for us to all have lunch there. It was an unforgettable experience! This is the same club, on the new Basque episode of “Somebody feed Phil”… If you are looking to visit one, contact Julen.
Santa Clara: Take one of the boats to Santa Clara, the little island you see from the beach. There is a beach, a place kids jump off of into the water, a restaurant, and a hike you can do.
FAVORITE RESTAURANTS:
There’s NO shortage of great food here with Michelin credentials around nearly every corner. You won’t go hungry! But you do need to be wise about where you choose to use your appetite (:
Also to note, dinner doesn’t generally start until 7pm. Oof! That was tough for me to get on board with. Thus, why you need a Pintxo.
What’s a Pintxo? - They are essentially a little snack and a drink. They eat late here, so this is to tide you over until dinner. Similar to tapas, but more bite sized. Hot Tip: I almost always choose to order the hot Pintxos, instead of picking what’s behind the counter.
My favorite Pintxo bars:
Gandarias, Ganbara, Bar Sport, Antonio Bar, Haizea, Beti Jai… Truly there are so many! The vibe is relaxed. You’ll find kids running around, playing soccer, etc.
Favorite Restaurants:
Narru- I prefer the bar menu over their restaurant! Don’t sleep on the Guindilla peppers or their Croquetas.
Bodegon Donostiarria - Casual spot, great for kids. We always sit outside.
Topa Sukalderia - Basque/Mexican fusion. very good and kid friendly!
La Espiga - we love to get an outside table here.
Arzak - Three Michelin stars. Fun experience! We could not get a reservation until 9:30… so we got a babysitter for the kids.
Rekondo: beautiful view. absolutely everything is fabulous and cozy about this spot. Book in advance!
Bodegon Alejandro: Michelin starred. Loved the cozy cave atmosphere.
Casa Camara: This is located in Pasaia- which is an adorable town. You’ll have to take a bus, a short little vintage boat ride, and you’ll arrive in Pasaia. We try to eat here once during our trip. It’s such a special spot! We always take the little stroll through town and hike up the mountain - usually after our big meal!
For breakfast:
I love Simona, Botanika, Pastelerias Otaegui (for the best pastries), and Old town coffee.
SHOPPING:
The shopping scene here is SO good.
For me- Colors, SKFK, Bedford street (especially this!), Six Store, Dr. Bloom, Hoff, Auka, Enea, maje, Sandro,
baby clothes … I could not love to shop for baby clothes more when I’m here… M&H, Irulea, Dona Carmen, Arsene et les pipelettes, gocco, and of course Zara Kids.
best chocolates - Bombones
I’ve also found some wonderful locally made gifts from the store attached to the Hotel Maria Christina.
THE THREE BEACHES
If it’s sunny, it feels like the entire city of San Sebastian has called off work to head to the beach. You have three beaches to choose from…
La Concha Beach: centrally located. Best for swimming. They have a few platforms with slides you can swim out to. You can rent chairs and shade if you go toward La Perla.
Zurriola: This is the surfing beach in Gros. But you’ll see swimmers and sunbathers here too. They have it marked off which side is for surfing and which for swimming. It changes based off the tide.
Ondarreta: If we’re playing favorites, I think this is it for me. I also love the long walk to get to it. Though you can take a bus! You can get a cute little cabana (there are only ten a day for tourists) if you get there by 10am to reserve. It’s under 25 euro. There are a couple of bars where you can get refreshments along here too. There are three platforms, two with slides, to swim out to. To me, this beach has more of a locals feel. Oh, and there’s a playground on the beach!
OTHER FAMILY ACTIVITIES WE ENJOY:
Hikes - the easiest one, and right off old town, is Mount Urgull. There’s also a cute little spot to grab refreshments, with the most amazing views. There are several different ways to get down and up. Lots to explore here! Beautiful views! With a museum at the top.
Mounte Igueldo: This amusement park feels like it hasn’t been updated since the 80s… but the views are unrivaled. You can take a cute cogwheel up and down. You can also hike up or take the bus.
Horseback ride through the basque country: This was quite the experience! But a fun one. I would recommend you have some horse experience.
Surfing: We have always hired private instructors through Pukas. Many other schools are in the area. If you are experienced, you can rent boards/wetsuits from Pukas and go on your own.
Aquarium: They have a really well done one just outside of Old Town.
Cooking class: Great spot for it! We have just done a family one with Julen in a gastronomic club. But Kookin School, and Mimo have both been recommended to us.
As always, I’m happy to answer questions!
eskerrik asko!
PS:
Your photos are just so dreamy from here! I need to go for a visit!